Ropes and lead at Rockit
Rockit Climbing And Bouldering Gym, on Premier Circuit in Warana, part of Kawana Waters, has been running since at least 2014. It has the widest mix of climbing on the coast: a top-rope hall with auto-belays, nine permanent lead walls, a separate bouldering gym with walls such as the Rift, the Crater and the Grotto, two MoonBoards set at 25 and 40 degrees and a spray wall. Belayers must be 13 or older. To lead, you need Rockit's lead course ($80) and its Anytime Lead assessment, plus your own rope and lead gear, and a supervised Lead Night runs on the first Tuesday of each month. Its shop bills itself as the coast's largest climbing gear store.
Bouldering gyms
Flow Bouldering is a family-owned gym in a big warehouse at Forest Glen, just off the Maroochydore exit of the Bruce Highway. It opened in February 2021 with walls built by Brisbane's Indoor Climbing Productions, keeps well over 80 problems up, with yellow climbs for beginners, and has a Kilter Board, a specialty-coffee café and space for dogs on a lead, kept to the concrete away from the mats. Flow has hosted the Queensland youth boulder titles, and each winter it runs a UV-lit social comp, ICP Neon Nights.
Bould Move, on Innovation Parkway in Birtinya, less than a kilometre from Rockit, opened in July 2021 around three ideas: boulder, train, recover. Alongside more than 130 problems, a Kilter Board, a spray board and campus and hang boards, it has a strength gym, group workouts written by its in-house physiotherapist, an infrared sauna, a café and a bar serving beer and wine, and it opens at 5am on weekdays.
Boulder Heads Indoor Climb is in Baringa, in the Aura development on the southern Sunshine Coast. A brother and sister run it, resetting problems every Wednesday on walls up to 4.5 metres, with a 2024 MoonBoard and a Tension Board 2 for training. It hires out crash pads for outdoor bouldering, which it says no other gym on the coast does, and with headspace Caloundra it runs LVL UP, a free fortnightly bouldering group for young men aged 16 to 25.
Prices and memberships
An adult visit costs $22 at Boulder Heads, $24 at Flow, $26 at Bould Move and $27 at Rockit for ropes and bouldering, or $23 for Rockit's bouldering only, and shoe hire is $5 to $7. Some days are cheaper: women climb at Boulder Heads for $17 on Mondays and students for $17 on Thursdays, students get half-price entry at Bould Move on Tuesdays, and Rockit has $18 Student Mondays from 2pm. Memberships without a lock-in are billed weekly or fortnightly: $29 a week at Boulder Heads, $32 at Flow and for Rockit's ropes-and-bouldering Flexible Gold, and $37.50 for Bould Move's Bould Base, which includes three group workouts and a sauna session a month. First visits come with extras, too: a free two-week pass after a paid first visit at Rockit, the rest of the week free at Boulder Heads and a two-week pass for an extra $8 at Bould Move.
Beginners and kids
Every gym starts first-timers with a waiver and a safety briefing. For a proper lesson, Flow runs a $50 Introduction to Bouldering in the mornings, and Boulder Heads has Bouldering Foundations technique sessions ($37 including entry). Children's classes run in school term: Rockit's are split into Joeys (5 to 8), Wallabies (9 to 12) and Roos (13 to 16) at $200 a term, Bould Move's youth program takes 6 to 15-year-olds for $225 a term, Flow's kids' clubs for ages 8 to 16 cost $27 a week including unlimited climbing, and Boulder Heads' Youth Squad for 7 to 16-year-olds costs $250 for a ten-week term. Rockit, Bould Move and Boulder Heads also run school-holiday programmes, and Rockit and Boulder Heads have sessions for homeschooled children. Under-16s need a supervising adult at the bouldering gyms, and Flow and Bould Move ask for one adult for every two children.
Outdoor climbing nearby
The coast's outdoor climbing is in the hinterland. In Glass House Mountains National Park, Mount Ngungun has moderate roped climbs and abseils of 20 to 40 metres, while Mount Tibrogargan and Mount Beerwah are serious climbs for experienced, well-equipped climbers only, and Mount Coonowrin is a restricted access area. Many of the park's bolts and anchors aren't approved by Queensland Parks and Wildlife Service, so using them is at your own risk, and the mountains hold ceremonial sites of spiritual significance to First Nations people. QPWS also lists climbing and abseiling on the rhyolite bluffs of Point Glorious in Mapleton National Park and an abseil from the peak of Mount Tinbeerwah in Tewantin National Park. The Queensland page covers the rest of the state's crags, including Frog Buttress, and the Brisbane and Gold Coast pages the walls further south.